Gabarinza – 2017

Gabarinza from the Gernot Heinrich winery from a single vineyard site in Gols

Gabarinza from Gernot Heinrich is a biodynamic red wine cuvée made from Blaufränkisch, Merlot, and Zweigelt, named after an old hillside site in Gols. It is not a blend from many parcels, but rather a wine from a single vineyard grown over red Danube gravel.

Gabarinza is the single-vineyard cuvée from the Gernot Heinrich winery in Gols, in Austria's Burgenland region, grown on a southwest-facing slope. The soil there consists of sandy loam over red Danube gravel, a substrate that stores heat and drains water quickly. This site is considered one of the oldest and best in Gols. With 13.0 percent alcohol, the 2017 vintage stands firmly on the ground.

Dark berries, rosehip, and wet leaves

The aroma begins with dark berries—blueberry, blackberry, and sloe—and pairs them with the tart notes of rosehip. Behind this, something damp emerges that is reminiscent of wet autumn leaves, along with a hint of pepper.

On the palate, this wine is powerful, meaty, and substantial without becoming loud. The tannin is firmly structured yet does not dry out, thanks to a velvety softness underneath. Above it all is a coolness that gives the wine momentum despite its fullness.

The vintage has had time to evolve, and the fruit has shifted towards dried plum without becoming dull. It should be decanted an hour in advance, as it was bottled unfiltered and a fine deposit forms at the bottom of the bottle.

The soil makes the difference

Gabarinza does not refer to a cuvée concept, but to a single vineyard in Gols whose slope faces southwest, capturing the afternoon sun.

Below the topsoil lies red Danube gravel, and above it sandy loam; this mixture explains the wine's character better than any list of grape varieties. The gravel stores heat and releases it to the vines at night, while the loam retains some water during dry summers. This creates the combination of fullness and coolness that defines this wine.

The grapes were harvested by hand between mid-September and early October 2017, and the berries then remained in wooden fermentation vats with their skins for three weeks. Fermentation occurred spontaneously; the wine was pressed in a basket press and then matured for 28 months in 500-liter used oak barrels. It was not bottled unfiltered until March 2020.

Braised meat and a spoonful of celery purée

Ox cheeks from the braising pot regain the seasoning that hours of cooking have taken away, thanks to this wine. Braised oxtail works in the same direction because its fat finds a counterpart in the firm tannin.

A spoonful of celery purée under the meat picks up the earthy side of the wine, bridging the gap between the plate and the glass. 750 milliliters is a tight calculation for a braised dish for four, which is why this wine is also offered in a three-pack.

Coming from the same series of great cuvées is the Salzberg, which hails from a neighboring Gols site and costs significantly more. The Pannobile of the same vintage turns out leaner and works with native varieties. If you are looking for more powerful bottles, you will find them in our red wine section and at the Gernot Heinrich winery.

Gabarinza – a wine and its values

• Origin: Wine from Austria
• Region: Burgenland
• Grape varieties: 35% Blaufränkisch, 35% Merlot, 30% Zweigelt
• 13.0% ABV alcohol
• 5.8 g/l acidity
• 1.0 g/l residual sugar

Organic inspection body AT-BIO-402 – Austrian Agriculture